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Fashion giants linked to deforestation in Brazil
Major brands like Zara and H&M sell garments produced with cotton from Brazilian farms. These have been linked to deforestation and land grabbing, according to a new investigation. Before they reach the display windows of fashion giants like Zara and H&M, cotton pants, shorts, shirts and socks leave behind a trail of deforestation, land grabbing and human rights violations in Brazil. Though many of them carry a sustainable production label,  a yearlong investigation by UK-based NGO Earthsight detailed the connection between crops in Brazil, the world's fourth largest cotton producer, and European brands. Earthsight analyzed satellite images, shipping records, public archives and visited producing regions to track the journey taken by 816,000 tons of cotton.   According to the report, this raw material was produced specifically for eight Asian companies which, between 2014 and 2023, manufactured around 250 million retail items. Many of them, the investigation claims, supplied brands such as H&M and Zara, among others. "It's shocking to see these links between very recognizable global brands that apparently don't make enough effort to have control over these supply chains. To know where the cotton comes from and what kind of impact it causes," Rubens Carvalho, head of deforestation research at Earthsight, told DW.  The problem lies at the source: Cotton for export is mainly produced in the western part of Brazil's Bahia state, a region immersed in a tropical and extremely biodiverse savanna called the Cerrado.  Vegetation in the Cerrado is often razed illegally to make space for crops and cultivation. Deforestation there has doubled in the last five years, according to Brazil's National Institute for Space Research.  Deforestation and land grabbing  Among the cases analyzed in the report is the SLC Agricola group, which claims to be responsible for 11% of Brazil's cotton exports. The Earthsight report estimates that in the last 12 years, Cerrado land equivalent to 40,000 football fields has been destroyed within SLC's farms.   And in 2020, the company, which also grows soybeans, was named the biggest deforester in the biome, according to the American think tank Chain Reaction Research.  In 2021, SLC committed to a zero-deforestation policy with its suppliers. A year later, a report by the nonprofit consultancy Aidenvironment found that 1,365 hectares of the Cerrado had been razed within properties that grow cotton . And almost half of this was within a legal reserve. When questioned about these allegations, the group told DW that "all of SLC's conversions of native vegetation occurred within the limits established by law."   Regarding Aidenvironment's accusation, the company said the destruction was caused by "a natural fire, and not to open new areas for production." Another group analyzed in detail is Horita, which Earthsight has accused of violent land disputes with traditional Indigenous communities. The Horita Group didn't respond to DW's request to comment.  Cotton linked to European brands  In its investigation, Earthsight retraced and followed the route of 816,000 tons of cotton exports from SLC Agricola and the Horita Group between 2014 and 2023. The main destinations were China, Vietnam, Indonesia, Turkey, Bangladesh and Pakistan. The traceable data led to eight clothing manufacturers in Asia. All the intermediaries identified (PT Kahatex in Indonesia; Noam Group and Jamuna Group in Bangladesh; Nisha, Interloop, YBG, Sapphire, Mtmt, in Pakistan) supply retail products to brands such as Zara and H&M, according to the NGO. "The cotton that we linked to land rights and environmental abuses in Bahia is Better Cotton-certified. The scheme patently failed to prevent this cotton reaching concerned consumers," said the Earthsight report.  Launched in 2009 by the fashion industry and organizations such as WWF, Better Cotton created a seal to certify the safe origin of the raw material. According to the initiative, there are 370 certified farms in Brazil in partnership with the country's Cotton Producers Association, Abrapa.  Switzerland-based Better Cotton told DW that it has just completed an enhanced third-party audit of the farms involved, and that it needs time to analyze the findings and implement changes if necessary.   "The issues raised [by the report] demonstrate the pressing need for government support in addressing the issues brought to light and ensuring a fair and effective implementation of the rule of law," said the initiative's email. More control over supply chains needed H&M told DW that "the findings of the report are highly worrying," adding that it takes the issue very seriously.   "We are in close dialogue with Better Cotton to follow the outcome of the investigation and the next steps that will be taken to strengthen and revise its standard," the retailer said in an email.  Zara told DW that it also takes "the accusations against Better Cotton extremely seriously," and demands that the certifier share the outcome of its investigation as soon as possible.   On April 10, Inditex, which owns Zara, demanded more transparency from Better Cotton after it was announced that the report would be released the following day.  Inditex sent a letter to the initiative dated April 8, requesting clarification on the certification process. Inditex does not buy cotton directly from suppliers, but the companies that produce it are audited by certifiers such as Better Cotton.  For Rubens Carvalho from Earthsight, holding Europeans accountable is part of the solution to ending deforestation and rights violations in commodity-producing centers like Brazil.  "Cotton is still poorly regulated in European markets. They need to regulate its consumption and decouple it from negative environmental and human impacts," he said. "They need serious regulations that punish non-compliance. This increases the pressure on producers."  
12 Apr 2024,14:15

Pele 'would have been sad' at state of Brazil team, says son
Pele "would have been sad" at the state of the current Brazilian national team, his son Edinho has told AFP in an interview days before the first anniversary of his death. Brazil have struggled in qualifying for the 2026 World Cup and presently occupy sixth place in the South American table, the last spot that affords direct qualification. The Selecao have struggled without their biggest current star, Neymar, who is a long-term injury absentee after tearing knee ligaments. "This crisis didn't appear overnight, there are big and complex problems," said Edinho, 53, who is one of Pele's seven children. "We are experiencing a decline... we still have great players but in previous times we had more high-level players than we do today." Edinho, who was raised by his mother as Pele and her separated shortly after they moved to New York when he signed for New York Cosmos in 1975 but grew closer to him in later life, added: "There is no doubt, if (Pele) had been there this year, he would have been very sad." Santos, the Brazilian club where Pele spent most of his career, are also going through a tough period after they were relegated to the second division for the first time in its 111-year history. The club is wracked by financial problems and boardroom rifts. "Unfortunately this is no surprise. Anyone who has followed the daily life of the club could have anticipated such a scenario, and it has ended up happening," said Edinho, who was Santos' goalkeeper for several seasons. The ceremonies to mark Friday's first anniversary of Pele's death from cancer at the age of 82 are expected to be low-key. The six surviving children of the man widely considered the greatest footballer in history will hold a virtual meeting to mark the moment as several live in the United States, while a ceremony is scheduled to be held at the mausoleum in Santos that was opened to the public in May. Edinho, whose life has been far from smooth serving time for money laundering and drug trafficking, said the loss of the charismatic man who scored 77 goals in 92 appearances for Brazil had left a huge hole in the family's life. "He was exceptional, we miss him a lot," Edinho said. "He carried our country's name through football, which we are very proud of."   Source: BSS
26 Dec 2023,18:02

Brazil militia leader 'Zinho' surrenders to police
The state of Rio de Janeiro's "public enemy Number 1" has turned himself in after years on the run. Luis Antonio da Silva Braga is believed to be the leader of Rio's largest criminal militia. One of Brazil's top criminal leaders has surrendered after negotiations with local authorities, according to the country's federal police. Luis Antonio da Silva Braga, better known as "Zinho," had been on the run since 2018 and is the subject of at least a dozen outstanding warrants, according to a police statement issued late Sunday.   'Public enemy Number 1' "Zinho" had been designated the state of Rio de Janeiro's "public enemy Number 1." He is now in custody awaiting trial, according to a police statement. "After the formalities due to his arrest, the inmate was taken for medical forensics and then sent to the state's prison system, where he will remain available for our courts," the statement read. On Monday, Brazilian Justice Minister Flavio Dino hailed the arrest on X, formally known as Twitter, saying it was an "important result" following "serious and planned work being carried out in Rio de Janeiro and other states, in the fight against criminal factions." Rise of the militia Militia groups came to prominence in the South American country around four decades ago, rising up from the ranks of former police officers, soldiers, firefighters and prison guards. Initially, they were formed as community self-defense units against the threat posed by drug gangs in the city known for its violent crime. But the militias then went on to seek "protection" money from businesses and took control of service provision to inhabitants of Rio's impoverished  favela neighborhoods. They have in recent years expanded into drug trafficking, as well as money laundering. The militias are said to control around 10% of Rio's metropolitan area, according to a study last year by the non-profit Fogo Cruzado and a security-focused research group at the Fluminense Federal University.
26 Dec 2023,17:31

Brazil police crackdown leave at least 44 people dead
Deadly police action across Brazil in the past few days has reignited the debate over security forces' use of lethal force. In the latest incident, police killed at least nine people in Rio de Janeiro. A wave of police operations across Brazil has culminated in the deaths of at least 44 people, including nine in Rio de Janeiro on Wednesday. State Police said they returned fire in a shoot-out in the  Penha slums complex area, resulting in multiple casualties. "Eleven suspects were wounded" and taken to the hospital, it said. "Nine of them died of their injuries," they said. They added the Rio operation was a response to intelligence on a high-level meeting by gang leaders. Two alleged drug gang leaders known as "Fiel" and "Du Leme" were among those who lost their lives during the Rio operation. Seven rifles, ammunition, and grenades have been seized from the suspects, police said. Two police officers were also wounded and were in stable condition. Deadly raids across Brazil In Sao Paulo state, authorities said Wednesday that 16 alleged criminals have been killed since police launched a massive anti-gang operation on Friday. The operation came after 30-year-old special forces officer Patrick Bastos Reis was shot dead while on patrol in the port city of Guaruja on Thursday. In the northeastern state of Bahia, officials reported the deaths of 19 suspects in three separate cities due to clashes with police since Friday. Use of lethal force questioned In all the cases, authorities said police had returned fire after coming under attack. The operations have sparked a debate about the security forces' reliance on lethal force, particularly in a country where the police killed 6,429 people in 2022 alone. Rio state legislator Dani Monteiro mentioned Wednesday's police operation came just over a year after a raid in the same favela complex left 25 dead. She criticized Rio state Governor Claudio Castro, a security hardliner and ally of far-right former president Jair Bolsonaro, demanding a halt to his security policies. President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva's Justice Minister, Flavio Dino, joined the criticism, arguing that the police response "doesn't seem proportional to the crime committed." Lula da Silva, who beat Bolsonaro in last year's vote, has long criticized his predecessor's support of police who kill.
03 Aug 2023,14:46

Brazil court lifts suspension of Telegram app
Brazil had temporarily banned Telegram after it failed to cooperate in an investigation into neo-Nazi chat groups. The company says it prioritizes the privacy of users. A federal judge in Brazil on Saturday lifted the suspension of Telegram, an encrypted messaging app. Last week, Brazil had ordered a temporary ban on the app over its failure to cooperate in an investigation into neo-Nazi chat groups. A complete blockage "is not reasonable" given its impact on the freedom of communication for those not involved in the probe, stated Judge Flavio Lucas. However, the daily fine of 1 million reais (about $200,000, €181,000) for non-compliance continues to be in place. Brazil's eye on social media regulation Four people in two schools were shot deadin Espirito Santo state of Brazil in November by a former student with a swastika pinned to his vest. The court stated that the 16-year-old is believed to have been a member of extremist channels on Telegram where tutorials on murder and bomb manufacturing were disseminated. Telegram was asked to provide authorities with details like names, tax identity numbers, profile photos, bank information and registered credit cards of channel members of two neo-Nazi groups accused of inciting violence in schools. Brazil has seen a rise in school violence in the last one year. Brazilian President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva made regulation of social media platforms a key consideration in a meeting with ministers and Supreme Court justices earlier this month. The court also pointed out Telegram's "past clashes with the judiciary" and stated that "cyberspace cannot be free territory." Telegram's focus on privacy After the court temporarily suspended the app, Telegram founder and CEO Pavel Durov said that it was "technologically impossible" to provide the data. Durov also emphasized that it is Telegram's mission to protect privacy and free speech. The social media company brands itself on discretion and said that its special secret chats use end-to-end encryption. In an online FAQ, the company states that it has never shared user data with any government. Co-existing with the Kremlin In the past, Telegram has been blocked by other governments including Iran, China and Russia. The company based in the United Arab Emirates is run by Durov, an ethnic Russian who has managed to co-exist with the Kremlin despite its crackdown on speech and Western media after the invasion of Ukraine. Telegram is used by so-called "patriotic" hackers loyal to the Kremlin to organize cyberattacks on Ukrainian and NATO targets. The other side uses it to fight back. Intelligence agencies and security researchers focusing on ransomware gangs, cybercriminals, disinformation purveyors, terror groups, regularly track groups on Telegram.
30 Apr 2023,17:46

Brazil launches sweeping probe after pro-Bolsonaro riots
At least one official has been fired over criticism of poor security at key government buildings. Supporters of former President Jair Bolsonaro had demanded military intervention to oust his leftist successor. Authorities in Brazil launched an investigation on Monday after thousands of supporters of former President Jair Bolsonaro stormed the country's highest seats of power. The protesters — who were demanding that newly-elected President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva be ousted —  left a trail of destruction in scenes that echoed the 2021 US Capitol invasion by fans of former President Donald Trump. What are investigators doing? Brazil's Institutional Relations Minister Alexandre Padilha said the vandalized buildings would be inspected for evidence including fingerprints and images to find the culprits.  He said the rioters apparently intended to spark similar actions nationwide.  Justice Minister Flavio Dino equated the acts to terrorism and the stoking of a coup. He said authorities had started tracking those who paid for buses that transported protesters to the capital. "They will not succeed in destroying Brazilian democracy," Dino said. "We need to say that fully, with all firmness and conviction." "We will not accept the path of criminality to carry out political fights in Brazil. A criminal is treated like a criminal." Questions over Bolsonaro's future Bolsonaro, who left Brazil for the US state of Florida on the second-to-last day of his term, has rejected the accusation that he had spurred on the protesters. He said peaceful demonstrations were democratic but the assault on government buildings had "crossed the line." US President Joe Biden is now facing mounting pressure to remove Bolsonaro from his self-imposed exile in the southern state. "Bolsonaro should not be in Florida," Democratic Congressman Joaquin Castro said. "The United States should not be a refuge for this authoritarian who has inspired domestic terrorism in Brazil. He should be sent back to Brazil." Fellow Democratic Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez echoed that opinion. "The US must cease granting refuge to Bolsonaro in Florida," she said. "Nearly two years to the day the US Capitol was attacked by fascists, we see fascist movements abroad attempt to do the same in Brazil." Repercussions for senior officials The Brazilian president had earlier read a freshly signed decree for the federal government to assume control of security in the federal district. Lula said that "fascist fanatics,'' as well as those who financed their activities, should be punished, and also accused Bolsonaro of encouraging the uprising. Brasilia Governor Ibaneis Rocha fired the security chief of the capital, Anderson Torres, who was previously Bolsonaro's justice minister. Meanwhile, Supreme Court magistrate Alexandre de Moraes ordered that Torres himself should relinquish his post for 90 days. The office of Brazil's attorney general said it had asked the Supreme Court to issue arrest warrants for Torres "and all other public officials responsible for acts and omissions" that had led to the unrest. There has been international condemnation of the violent protests that centered on Brasilia's Three Powers Square.
09 Jan 2023,17:08

PM emphasises signing PTA, FTA with Brazil and three other South American countries
Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina today stressed the need for boosting trade and business cooperation between Bangladesh and Brazil. There is a huge prospect of business expansion between the two countries, she said. The premier said this when Brazilian Ambassador to Bangladesh Paulo Fernando Dias Feres paid a courtesy call on her at the latter’s official residence Ganabhaban. PM’s speech writer Md. Nazrul Islam briefed reporters after the meeting. Sheikh Hasina requested the Brazil government to prioritise expansion of bilateral trade and business. She emphasised signing preferential trade agreement (PTA) or free trade agreement (FTA) with Brazil and three other MERCOSUR (The Southern Common Market) countries – Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay – soon, as Bangladesh will graduate into a developing country in 2026. Noting that discussions are continuing over signing PTA or FTA with the MERCOSUR countries, the PM urged for completing the signing process of the agreements soon. Bangladesh mainly exports pharmaceuticals items and RMG products to Brazil and imports soybean, raw sugar and wheat. The PM also emphasised on enhancing agricultural cooperation between Bangladesh and Brazil. Noting that pharmaceutical items are now facing some restrictions over registration process in the Brazilian market, she asked the Brazil side to ease the restrictions. About the Rohingya issue, she said Bangladesh is providing shelter to more than 11 lakh displaced Rohingyas, which is a huge burden for the country. She said the displaced Rohingya population continues is growing with the births of 30,000 babies every year. The PM asked Brazil to play a decisive role in the United Nations Security Council over the Rohingya issue. She congratulated the newly elected Brazilian President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva. Sheikh Hasina expressed profound grief at the death of Brazilian football Legend Edson Arantes do Nascimento Pelé and conveyed condolences to his family and the people of Brazil. The Brazilian ambassador said Bangladeshi readymade garments have a great demand in the Brazilian market. Brazil can be a major market for Bangladeshi RMG products, he added. He said there is a huge scope to strengthen the bilateral cooperation between the two countries, particularly in trade and technology. Paulo Fernando put emphasise on enhancing the people-to-people and business-to-business contact between the two countries. Regarding the bilateral agricultural cooperation, the envoy said agricultural good practices, experiences and technology can be shared with each other. PM's Ambassador-at-Large Mohammad Ziauddin, Principal Secretary M. Tofazzel Hossain Miah and Foreign Senior Secretary Masud Bin Momen were present at the meeting.
08 Jan 2023,14:43
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